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« More River Bass | Main | The "Belly Cam" - From Lake Eufala »

March 09, 2010

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Paul Roberts

Awesome!

Dustin Kelso

When I first used fluoro, it was Vanish. Wow, that stuff was absolutely horrible. The last 3 seasons I've used 12lb Seaguar for tube, worm, and cranks, and 15lb Seaguar for jigs, spinners, and rattletraps.

After switching, my bite to hook-up rate has went up significantly.

But, I was always warned not to fish in cold water. Could you give a scientific reason on why you should fish fluro in cold water or is this just a myth?

Big Indiana Bass

A little of both Dustin. There have been guys who have reported quite a bit of problem with fluorocarbon in freezing weather. Much like mono, it gets stiffer and less easier to work with when the outside world is freezing. I've read of exploding lines and breaking knots. But, I know a ton of guys who use the stuff for ice fishing and think it's the greatest stuff since sliced bread.

The overall recommendations I've seen are to:

1) Make sure you're using 100% fluorocarbon and not some fluoro-coated line.

2) Expect some degradation in both line breaking strength and knotting ability compared to warm weather use.

3) When you can get away with, use fluorocarbon leader material as opposed to full spools of regular fluorocarbon line.

4) Use the highest quality fluoro (however you can determine that) in cold weather as mentioned in the article (the difference in quality not all being equal, that is).

I know Seguar comes highly recommended in most cold weather reports. I find that interesting because I've also read that the Japanese made fluoros (like Toray, Sunline, Sugoi and P-line) are the higher purity fluoros that perform best in cold weather, and that the German made fluoros (BPS, Seguar, Stren and Berkley) are supposedly less pure and not quite as good in cold weather.

Bottom line is that it's perfectly fine to fish fluoro in the cold (look at the tackle rigs used by the top finishers in both the Classic and the recent Table Rock events), but you might have to test a couple different brands out to find one that performs up to your expectations.

David

you question is very worthy. it is really true some fluoro through formulation or generation will react to cold weather differently. But the highend fluoro 100% is key, they just preform best. Torays Hi-grade (white spool) is great in cold icy water. I believe the R-18 by Seaguar will do very well as well. The R-18 will be known to the usa as Tasu.

Toray (rumor has it...is how I must state as such) makes Sugio, Daiwa, Cajin, and BPS) I assure if true they are earlier generation at best. It is also rumored that Sunline is uses one of toray's factorys. I hope this helps. The Sunline head was a former employee at Toray (rumor has it ....sorry I have to say it like this).

the problem is people complain about cost yet they are willing to purchase 300.00 spinning or casting reel from Japan and 300.00 rod and if all goes well 58k bassboat. If you consider better quality or better technology in fluoros you can use them significantly longer. Months even years...serious. I have one spinning reel set for this duration. I do get twist but I open the spool run it behind the boat and I am fishing again....same spool of fluoro.

Dustin

Brian and David,

Thanks so much for the responses. I look at it this way...I can keep my Seaguar on longer than let's say a mono or co-polymer. With that said, the cost evens out. Maybe not $$$ wise, but time wise. I don't have to strip line and put more on as frequent.

And if you use a mono or co-polymer backing in 10 or 12lb, then add your fluoro, you don't have to use as much.

I'm a co-angler and fish an average of 2 tournaments/month. I want to be competitive and I think fluoro gives me that edge.

David

Hi Dustin
a lot of tournament anglers have a challenging time understanding the purpose of backing. It is a secondary benefit that by providing backing allows you to use less fluoro. This is true, however, there is a preformance benefit to the use of backing AND the type of backing you should use.

Try to guide yourself away from line on line backing/and extensions. Use a dacron braid instead. This material is much lighter than nylon or fluoro. It lessens the weight of the spool providing better inertia (initial force generated). This translates to better reel speed, spool balance, improved trajectory and less spool weight (less energy). Handling characteristics simply improve.

Also recognize what you fish re: conditions/structures. I have several types of Toray for use. I use Upgrade for abraision fishing (even finesse fishing in rugged stuff) it comes in a 150 m spool divided by 75 meter fills divided by red marker in the line. We call this 2 shot spool. I'll use BAWO superfinesse for ultra clear/refined presentation where I am targeting quality fish (3-5lbs smallies) but must use less line vibration ( I use 2.5lb to 5.0lbs). I use Hi-grade as all purpose it has playful characteristics (many bait presentations) and considered Japan's best. Please don't take my comment as a sell job, thats not the point of my entry.

You can do this with other fluoro companies. Toray is the most convincing technique specific but honestly again I am not trying to sell you on the stuff. If you like Seaguar (I know the guys there and they are good competent folk) I would use their carbon pro or abrax for my abrasive fishing, AbraX for all purpose and R-18 or Tatsu (sp?) for finesse app.

You can do some of this type selection with Hi-Seas as well. They have a couple different fluoros with different action.

Varavas also is good fluoro. Megabass (good line but limited selecting) and Sunline (has a couple lines which could be considered technique specific).

Also you may want to learn how to top shot. I have been introducing this presentation to touring pro for several years. It provides amazing dectection at distance. I will be writing about for several magazines soon.

Take Care guys. I hope this makes sense and helps in some way.

Big Indiana Bass

Good points David, which brings up another question? Will dacron braid grip the spool well enough (no slippage under strain) when tied directly to spool as backing that has no direct tie-off point, or do you need a small nylon backer (several yds.) first?

Also - "it comes in a 150 m spool divided by 75 meter fills divided by red marker in the line." - absolutely BRILLIANT! I wish all line companies would do this with their large spools. I have my own method of accomplishing this, but needless to say, it is much more 'labor intensive' :)

David

Most American spools are very deep if your line is applied under tension you should be fine. On baitcasting no problem. I've seen very little hassle on spinning. If so it was on loading the spool with too big flat braid winding on very soft and using 20 meters of fluoro.

American spinning reels are slowly (SLOWLY) improving. This is why I use JDM product. This manufacturing for the last 15 plus years has been my choice. The spools are shallow holding load of 105 yrds or 80 to100 meter loads thats all. When I first began this rational I was laughed at. "you are going to get spooled" meaning the fish will spool me. Well this hasn't happened, I've hooked walleye by accident and their runs haven't taxed the shallow spool concept.

Many years ago we played with artifical arbors and then companies came out with them and the American mainstream angler just didn't use them. Your best JP tour anglers are using shallow spool concept.

But backing with light weight dacron will do. BTW drilling your spool is not recommended it is nearly impossible to depart the metal in a perfectly balanced way.

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